It will give the perfect balance of power while reducing its overall weight substantially! A basic model typically comes standard with this setup, which will work well for entry-level divers. Piston regulators are considered easier breathing due to their high flow rate.
Diaphragm first stages offer less air and are more likely to freeze over in cold environments like deep water scuba dives. Because it breaks into harmless granules instead of shards or splinters if they do happen to break. Here are a few we recommend:. This article contains incorrect information.
This article is missing information that I need. Best Regulator for Advanced Divers. Best Regulator for Recreational Diving.
Fiberglass reinforced body for durability. Chrome-plated brass and steel materials for the first stage. Air balanced diaphragm. Easy to reach Venturi switch and large purge button. Comfortable dual silicone mouthpiece. Two high-pressure, low pressure, and high-flow LP ports. Best Regulator for Advanced Divers Thumbnail. Best Regulator for Recreational Diving Thumbnail. Check Current Price. Source: Canva Pro. Jon Stenstrom Founder. The diaphragm contacts a lever attached to a small valve which rocks open, allowing air to enter the mouthpiece.
If you only breathe in a little, the diaphragm only moves a little, and just a little air is released. But if you inhale forcefully, the diaphragm and lever move farther, giving you a larger volume of air.
So suffice it to say that the air available at any one time will be greater than what you could ever use in a typical diving situation. The first stage, which is located between the scuba cylinder valve and the hose feeding the second stage, is responsible for taking the high-pressure air coming out of the tank and reducing it to the psi or so intermediate pressure that the second stage needs to function properly.
One thing most modern regulators have in common is dependability. They are built to stringent quality standards and they are designed in such a way as to always provide air to the diver, as long as there is air in the scuba cylinder. Modern regulators come in a wide variety of shapes, sizes, materials, and technologies, as well as a wide range of prices. If you've never shopped for a regulator before, you'll find there are many choices available.
We're here to help you understand the different features and benefits of the various models and styles. If you are going to do primarily the sort of diving that the typical newly certified divers usually enjoys — relaxing dives on vacation in warm water locations, and at recreational depths — you'll do fine with most regulators on the market today.
If we sell it, the diving regulator will be a high quality piece of gear that will serve you well for vacation diving for many, many years to come. So why are there so many different regulators on the market? Generally the variety is there to answer needs generated by specific and specialised types of diving. If you're planning on traveling a lot, for instance, and you need to conserve weight and space in your baggage, it will probably interest you to know that many manufacturers offer regulators for the traveling diver that are both lighter in weight than, and pack more compactly than, your average regulator.
These light weight regulators may, for instance, replace the marine grade plated brass used in many regulator components with strong, lighter weight alternatives, such as titanium. But the vast majority of premium regulators are designed to handle one or more of three conditions.
They are designed to be used in colder water, or they are made to be used comfortably at greater depths, or they are designed to function well under high work loads — swimming against a strong current, say, or doing something strenuous like dislodging a stuck anchor or digging as part of a scientific underwater archaeology project.
To understand how these high performance regulators work, you can look at differences in their basic design. It's important to know that, when it comes to performance, some of the most significant differences in regulator design are found in the first stage.
You'll hear most first stages being referred to as unbalanced or balanced, and as piston or diaphragm designs. Here's what those terms mean:. The backup can either be a second mouthpiece attached via its own hose to the first stage, or incorporated into the hose that you use to inflate and deflate your buoyancy compensator. As a general rule of thumb, your octopus should have performance characteristics similar to those of your primary second stage.
That way, if you have to go to someone's aid, they will be breathing from a regulator as good as the one they started the dive with — a good way to take some of the pressure out of a possibly stressful situation. Traditionally, the backup second stage regulator has been a lower-performance lower-cost unbalanced design because it was thought to be less likely to free flow and less prone to problems.
However, experience has demonstrated concerns with using a lower performance regulator under conditions that forced a switch to the backup, and many experienced divers are now choosing identical high-performance backup and primary regulators. The Dive Perfect high-performance balanced second stage is very resistant to free flow when it has the venturi setting on pre-dive and the adjustment knob set low. Field experience has shown the Dive Perfect regulators to be quite trouble-free as well.
So we thought it was a time for another equipment related blog, and this time we are focusing on regulators. Ultimately the reg set that is right for you will come down to what is most practical for the type of diving you do, and the environments you dive in.
But here are a few things you should consider…. Many divers who err on the side of caution and take a more basic regulator set end up regretting it as their dive skills, qualifications, dive travel and general requirements expand. Prices vary, but to give you a general idea a basic first stage, second stages and gauge set like the Aqua Lung Calypso retails for just over 19,THB. Just like with a BCD, you should ideally try out a regulator before purchasing it.
Perhaps you have a friend who already uses the model you are looking at? Balanced regulators provide assistance at depth and resistance in the shallows, so that every breath of your dive is comfortable and consistent — even when your tank pressure is lower.
An unbalanced regulator does not assist or resist breathing, so typically they breathe a bit harder on deeper dives and when running low on air. The Aqua Lung Micron is a popular choice for both Koh Tao waters and beyond, as it is both balanced, and very light due to its compact design, making it ideal for the travelling diver. So if possible, choose a regulator that has the option of adjusting the air flow on your primary air source.
This technology was first developed by Aqua Lung, and is now common in many regulator sets. In some regulator this feature can be fixed, however most second stages allow you to adjust the Venturi setting using a knob.
In the Min. In this position, it helps prevent unwanted free-flow on the surface and from your secondary 2nd stage octopus on your dive. Whereas, If the Venturi knob in the Max. This feature is normally found on balanced second stages and allows you to to adjust the inhalation efforts required to open the valve by turning a knob, which increase or decrease the tension on the demand lever spring.
Turned to the Min position, more tension is put on the spring, this in turn results in a lower air flow rate, which is great for diving in would water environment, and helps prevent free flow while swimming against heavy currents. When Turned to the Max. A major advantage to having this system on your regulator is that it allows you to adjust the regulator in the middle of your diving, which can fix simple problems, like a minor free flow or a regulator that is providing too little or too much air at depth.
When buying a new regulator a secondary 2nd stage is not normally included in the package Only First Stage and Primary Second Stage , however, it is a vital piece of equipment when assembling a proper Scuba Regulator system.
Generally known as an alternate air source, it is a backup in case your primary fail, or if you need to assist your buddy with air on a dive. The general rule of thumb when choosing a Scuba Regulator Octopus is to get the same model as your primary second stage.
However, having a lower performing model is just as good. The advantage of using this system is that it is very easy to find in the event of an emergency, and it frees up an extra low-pressure port for other uses.
However, a major disadvantage to this system is that you will have to give your buddy your primary, and you swap with the alternative air source. Also, because of the shorter hose, movement can be somewhat restricted when sharing an alternate air source. But, it is also good to check you regulators owners manual before attempting to use your regulator with Nitrox. These are normally denoted by bright green on the first and second stage. However, you can take your existing regulator to service centre to have it Oxygen Cleaned.
It is also important to not that all regulator cannot be used with enriched air. Some materials like titanium cannot be use with enriched air over a certain percent due to its heavy carbon content. You Scuba Regulator is the most important piece of dive equipment, it is literally your like line underwater.
A major malfunction in any other scuba diving equipment can simply mean that you had a bad dive. But, a failure with your Scuba Regulator can be every serious, and even result in injury.
Seeing how important this piece of dive equipment is, it is in our best interest to look after it properly. Fortunately, properly caring for you Scuba Regulator is not difficult at all. Just flow the simple Scuba Regulator maintenance tips below and you breathe comfortably and safely for longtime to come.
To do this, you will need to place the dust-cap back onto the first stage and seal it properly. But, first we must make sure that the dust cap is dry and free of water. To do this you can blast it with the remaining air you have in your dive tank, or wipe it with a clean dry towel. While soaking your regulator you will need to move it around a little bit to ensure that you remove any lose particle that might be stuck on.
You also want to work any buttons or levers backwards and forward to remove anything that might have been stuck on your reg, do this when the regulator is submerged. However, there is one thing that you must not do while your regulator is soaking, and that is to never press the purge button on the second stage. This can let water enter the first stage via the second stage. If there is a hose available, you want to continue rinsing it with a stream of fresh water.
By now you should have gotten most of the particles off the regulator but a stream of fresh water on the first and second stage will ensure that you remove them.
While doing this you want to be sure that the dust-cap is firmly in place, and not to push the purge button. Let the regulator try for a few minutes or until is is completely free of water.
But, it is important not to let it dry in direct sunlight or somewhere hot, as excessive heat can affect the rubber part in side there regulator not allowing to work properly on you nest dive. Store your regulator in a cool, dry, sport away from direct sunlight a and fumes. Position a regulator in a way that will not kinked the hoses. A Scuba Regulator bag is the perfect place to store you new regulator.
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