At the earliest stages, the Federation liaises with the other capitals, such as Milan, London and New York, and the other shows in order to guarantee international coherence and to remain a true development lever to serve brands.
The Federation provides logistical support to member and guest brands by negotiating showrooms, SACEM fees early on, and can, depending on the brand's profile, offer financial support for shows DEFI.
At the interface between houses and medias, the Federation draws up and transmits the list of accredited journalists and photographers each season. Instead of doing a traditional runway show where the models walked down the catwalk, the set was reimagined in a collaboration by the artist Anna Paparatti, who paid tribute to the colorful Roman nightclub The Piper Club, a mainstay for the bright aesthetic revolution of the swinging s in Italy. The platform rotated below disco balls and models stepped off one-by-one to walk the circular runway.
With a heavy dose of color and print, guests were spellbound by the kaleidoscopic presentation. It was a quiet season in terms of designer debuts a rarity in recent years , but there was one that stood out. Rochas, known for its flounce and romance, got an impactful punch of print, color, and youth in the hands of Charles de Vilmorin.
At only 24 years old, the designer had already gained praise from the industry, as he was invited to show on the couture schedule as guest designer earlier this year. It may have just been the largest fashion show in all of history, with thousands of guests. Balmain opened its hybrid show-concert to the public, who came to watch live performances including Doja Cat, Franz Ferdinand, and more.
When iconic figures Naomi Campbell and Carla Bruni took their turns on the runway both industry insiders and fans who came from all over went wild. Jonathan Anderson decided he was going to focus on experimentation for the spring show. And that he did, with 3D graphic protrusions in pastel shades. But the accessories were really special, perhaps some of the most creative and standout of the season. Heels were embellished with cracked egg yolks, bottles of nail polish, bars of soap, birthday candles, and a single rose stem.
Sometimes there are things you just have to see in person to believe them, and Schiaparelli's jewelry is one of those things.
The lips, eyes, ears, and nipples that dot the spring collection aren't just limited to jewelry, they also cover skirts, denim jackets, bags and even bathing suits, and they're wildly realistic and unique. It's just the sort of OTT glam we've been craving. After all the noise of getting back to a regular IRL fashion week, we couldn't help but marvel at the beauty of a little bit of quietness.
Yohji Yamamoto celebrated his 40th year anniversary of debuting in Paris with a subtle show that spoke volumes. Models glided down the runway in pairs and trios wearing signature draped and twisted dresses in shades of black, gray, and navy.
Exposed hoop cages covered with barely-there dresses closed the show and drew audible gasps from the audience, especially when each model handed a front row guest a black rose rendered in fabric. Matthew M. Williams debuted his first in-person show for the house of Givenchy, and he did so with a bold perspective. He infused classic silhouettes such as massive shoulders with nipped waists, or expertly tailored, sculptured blouses with a bright burst of color courtesy of a collaboration with Josh Smith, the New York based artist.
Benjamin Benmoyal. Calvin Luo. Cecilie Bahnsen. Christian Wijnants. Di petsa. Dice Kayek. Dries Van Noten. Elie Saab. Emanuel Ungaro. Ester Manas. Giambattista Valli. Heliot Emil. Isabel Marant. Issey Miyake. Leonard Paris. Ludovic de Saint Sernin. Lutz Huelle. Maison Margiela. Maison Rabih Kayrouz. Mame Kurogouchi. Marine Serre. Miu Miu. Nina Ricci. Olivier Theyskens.
Paul Smith. Raf Simons. Rick Owens. Saint Laurent. Shang Xia. Shiatzy Chen.
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