Once they settle into a hospitable environment, they will grow there indefinitely by self-sowing. Lupines can be started from seed, dormant bare-root plants, or potted plants, but seeds are easier to find and offer the broadest selection of cultivars. Be careful when buying nursery-grown plants. Lupines have fast-growing taproots that can become constrained if the plants languish in their containers too long.
Plant lupine in full sun in areas with cool summers, but give them filtered sunlight in warmer climates. If you grow lupine in the South, find a spot in the garden with afternoon shade.
In denser clay soils, loosen the soil before planting by working in compost. Lupines also like slightly acidic conditions. If your soil is too alkaline, you can lower the pH by adding sulfur see Garden Soil If planting lupine from seed, direct sow in the garden in late fall or early winter for blooms the following spring. You can also sow seeds in the spring 4 to 6 weeks before your average last frost date, but your plants will bloom later in the summer.
Plant container-grown plants in the spring after the danger of frost has passed. Lupine seeds have very tough outer shells that need to be softened up before sowing. You can do this by soaking the seeds in warm water for a few hours or by scarifying them with sandpaper or a small file to help them absorb water. See Growing Perennials from Seed.
Seedlings will emerge 15 to 25 days after planting. Potted lupine plants are typically perennial cultivars that you can put in the ground immediately in the spring. Space plants about 2 to 3 feet apart, and loosen the soil deeply to accommodate the long taproots. Amend the planting hole with organic matter, if necessary, to improve drainage. Few plants are as effective as lupines for creating a strong vertical statement in the garden.
They also are impressive when planted en masse in meadow or wildflower gardens, especially when allowed to naturalize freely. After planting lupines, keep the soil evenly moist to ensure good root development. Once your plants are deeply rooted, they can tolerate dryer conditions and will only need water during periods of drought. Applying a layer of mulch will help lock in soil moisture and keep the roots cool.
In fact, they actually enrich the soil in which they grow. Although there are several natural methods you can use to keep aphids under control see Eco-Friendly Pest Control , horticultural oils are often more effective and will also do a good job of preventing powdery mildew. As a last resort, prune affected plants back to the ground to encourage healthy new growth. Deadheading spent flowers will often encourage a second flush of blooms in early fall, especially in areas with cool summers.
Once the foliage starts to yellow at the end of the season, you can cut perennial species back to the ground. To encourage self-sowing, avoid deadheading and pruning and allow the flowers to form seedpods. Perennial species can also be propagated from cuttings taken from shoots at the base of the plant in spring. Be aware that lupine cultivars propagated from homegrown seed may not stay true to the original color and will often revert to shades of violet.
This aristocratic beauty — a member of the Russell hybrid 'Band of Nobles' series — features sweetly scented, rosy pink flowers accented with white banners. All grow to over 3 feet tall, making them colorful additions to the back of the border. Use normal multi-purpose compost and water, but not water-log, the compost immediately after sowing.
Seedlings should appear in 10 to 15 days time. When they do emerge, keep the plants in a cool, light position. A windowsill will be fine but not one in direct sunlight.
In the last week of April harden off the plants over a week or two, at this point they will be ready to plant outside. Our recommended supplier is Crocus who sell a large range of lupins in 9cm pots or the much larger 2 litre pots. They offer a five year plant guarantee, top quality plants and excellent service. Click here to see and buy from their extensive range. Planting lupins is simple, dig the area well where they are to be planted and sprinkle on some blood, fish and bone working it into the soil.
Dig a hole for each plant and plant to the same depth as it was in the pot. Lupins grow from crowns and if these are planted too deep they will rot, if planted too shallow they may fail to establish well. Water well. The planting distance between each lupin should be 30cm to 45cm 12in to 18in.
Don't feed lupins after their initial feed at planting time, nitrogen based fertilisers will encourage lush green growth which make them more prone to aphid attack. The flowers will die from the base of the flower head upwards, the time to dead head them is when two thirds of the flower has died.
New, smaller flowers will soon appear extending the flowering season. The foliage will slowly die back and does no damage. In early spring when new shoots appear, clear away any remaining dead foliage to allow good ventilation at ground level. Lupins will live for 10 years or more but much depends on the the conditions they are grown in. Generally they will produce a good display of flowers for five years and then begin to become woody and unproductive.
It is well worth digging them up at this stage, dividing them and replanting. Even though their long tap root will be damaged they may well recover and produce a decent display of flowers for another four or five years.
Spray lupins with a systemic insecticide at the very first signs of aphids which is generally May time. Take this off for about half an hour each day to allow ventilation and fresh air, then pop it back on. Plant out when ready, ideally somewhere sunny. Lupins can be sensitive, so give it space and try to be as gentle as possible. Division is a bit harder, and is not necessarily recommended unless you are a very experienced gardener. Because of the structure of their roots, Lupins are prone to being damaged by division.
Instead, we recommend growing a new plant from seed or cutting is advised for the best likelihood of a healthy plant. A humane way to keep slugs and snails away is to create a garlic spray, and coat the leaves of your Lupin.
This involves boiling up a couple of cloves of garlic into a solution, then mixing this with water. Not too complicated, and a much less violent preventative than poison! Young plants are especially prone to getting munched, so remain especially vigilant for the first couple of years. Another hungry pest, aphids are keen to get their teeth into your Lupins. Once a colony takes hold of a plant they can cause it to wilt, they can be hard to dislodge.
While slugs and aphids are creatures, anthracnose is a fungal disease that can wreak havoc with your Lupins. It is not usually fatal but can cause a lot of damage from dieback. Dead, brown areas, slimy orange spores, and coiled leaves are telltale symptoms of anthracnose. Removing and destroying damaged leaves, and planting your Lupins so that air can flow freely around them are two ways of controlling and preventing this condition. This creatively named condition gives Lupins — you guessed it — brown spots.
Lupins have been popular in British gardens for generations, and with good reason. This guide covers everything you need to introduce Lupins into your garden. We hope it was useful, and that they bring a splash of rustic colour for you and everyone who visits to enjoy. Chris is interested in nature and the good things that happen when people are in it. He is a freelance writer, with writing published about cycling, green living, and ways to make a difference without fundamentally restructuring your lifestyle.
See his personal website here. Size Height 0. Chris Lee Chris is interested in nature and the good things that happen when people are in it.
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